TOPIC:

if i remeber right you can somehow remove the alu can from the exhaust damper.
About 10 years ago i have done this... if i remember right
Mine had a dent and i tried to remove it with a big round steel from the inside.
Is the braket mounted wit 2 bolts?
Maybe removing them will make it possible to slight off the sleeve.
I will have a look over the weekend.

The stator should be the same as the one from the CX, so have a look at this manual.

My GFR manual tells the same as the CX manual.
But i'm confused with the wire colors
Maybe this depends on which plug we are talking.

light blue / ground 46Ohm
black / ground 36Ohm
yellow / yellow 0,8 to 1,0 Ohm

I will try to check this at weekend when i'm back at home.

ciao Joachim

Seems that dismounting the damper of the GFR is that easy that i found it not worth to remember it
Just remove the braket at the foot peg, also the 3 nuts and remove the end can.
Put some kind of wood on the floor and put the side with the 3 bolts on it.
Just push and the alu can comes off.
It is only hold toghether to the inner parts by this 3 bolts. The end is fixed by a big O-ring.

I measured the ohm value sat my spare alternator and found the values posted above.
If i remember right that one is for the neutral switch

ciao Joachim

Hi Again thanks for all your help , i found a company called west country windings and they can rewind it for me , just a quick question to anyone with a GFR whos had stator or source coil problems , what was the issues you were encountering ?

West Country Windings did my stator. In that case it misfired then stopped on a ride - no spark. Had it recovered. Put a new plug in and it started OK. Went for a short ride round the block and it started to misfire and not rev again. Put in another new plug I had sensibly taken with me (and a plug spanner). Just about got it home before it died. I can't remember what the ignition coil resistance was, but it was much lower than the other one so I got it rewound.

Thanks 72 your communications have been of great help , my problem is very similar to yours and it looks like i'm possibly closing in on a solution , i,m of shore again for a month but will let you know how i get on when i return and will post some pics of the bike on the forum so you can see it , thanks again for the help and advice on this rare machine

Neil

Just to clarify I mean the resistance of the ignition winding in the stator. The HT coil was OK.

The stator winding insulation was probably breaking down when hot.

Another way to check it is to measure the voltage output from the winding.

I had a similar problem with a Rotax 2T motor years ago. Finally diagnosed by hooking a multimeter up to the ignition 'charging coil' as Bosch called it and starting up from cold. Good voltage at first (AC) then as the engine got hot it dropped and then went to zero (then naturally the engine stopped).