TOPIC:

Well having got my original Nordwest back together and running again after the big end problem, so thinking that all would be right in the world, I go and get an e-mail from a friend about a 1990 Nordwest for sale in Wimbledon!

Spoke to the guy on the phone and apparently it had been off the road for about 8 years under a cover in his back garden, but was running when taken off the road. He sent me a couple of photos taken on his phone, which confirmed that it was rough! I asked how much he was after for it and agreed to come over at the weekend.

I turned up and it was one of those "Oh dear" moments; the bike was covered in corrosion and he had left the tube between the air cleaner and the carbs off!

See attached photo! System wont let me load a JPEG!

I pointed out that this was a total restoration, far from something that could be got back on the road. So we took the number that hes was thinking of and divided it by 3, provided that the engine wasn't seized (which it wasn't() and made the deal.

I chucked it in the back of the van and dragged it home. Well after a couple of weeks with WD40 down the bore and a good run through of the carb through the ultrasonic, we hooked it up to a battery and pressed the button. It has a spark, it turns over but doesn't fire! Ok do a leak down test and what a surprise the valve seats are leaking, so bugger all compression.

So I am now in the process of taking the engine out to take the head off to sort out the valves and seats - no big deal, just a day or so of work.

However, there is always a but in there some where! I appear to have a couple of problems:

1) When I took the generator cover off everything inside was covered in white fur. So I guess the seal has gone in the water pump?

2) I am having real problems breaking the joints on the exhaust system. Has anyone got any suggestion on what to do. I am guessing that once I have the engine out then I may have a chance to get it off the bike and could use heat on it.

Am is to try and get it back up and running at the weekend, now I have the gaskets.

My Barn find RC600 was covered in white furry stuff when i 1st got it, it has scrubbed up well, a little paint here and there, one new side cover, repair sprag clutch, and it has become my favorite.
John

Chris

Well done,One Bi4 is not enough.

You don't want a boring, non- challenging life.

Not sure I get what you mean about the exhausts? You can get the Headers (Manifolds) of the head? Yeah.

Its the single joint above the clutch cover and the silencer joint? Yeah.

I have had these joints seize on other bikes not sure there's a know solution, only all the standard stuff:-
Heat, Plus Gas Twist it with a piece of wood, BEAT IT!. etc.

I will say that some of the new releasing agents like, WURTH Rust Off, Ice releasing agent. do appear to work, might have to use a lot! and /or soak it.

That white fluff, just cleaning it off, its not necessarily the water pump, if it is No Big Deal Contact me.

Cheers Zac Pike.

P.s Keep me up to speed with the Big End Job Please.

Yes. Heat, releasing agent, a big vice to hold part of it securely without damage and then twist and turn (and shout!). In extremis shock with a blunt instrument on something sturdy.

I find 'Shock & Unlock' works well on smaller stuff with potential for differential contraction - like needle bearing cages in suspension linkages, but not much better than Plusgas on larger items.

I just had a right old game getting the clutch centre off the 57 175 Sport. Not been off since 1957 I reckon and mounted on a taper and a key. I had to fashion a cunning dural plate to use a two legged puller and then use heat from a hot air gun and plusgas repeatedly. Still had to use a lump hammer to tap outwards on the other end of legs of the puller until it popped off with a bang as impressive as some Nordwest alternator rotors.

Zac,

Ok should have engine out this afternoon, then I hope that I can get the exhaust off the frame.

You are correct I have managed to get the exhaust port connection undone, though two studs broke! It is now the one above the clutch and the silencer connection that need to be freed. I can see myself going and getting a bottle of propane for the blow torch at this rate. But if I have it off the bike I shouldn't set fire to anything serious.

From elsewhere on the forum I have located the two bearings and two seals fro the water pump - if required. Do you have a photo of what the pump looks like when split? I am assuming that I am going to have to press it apart and change everything?

72degrees wrote:

Yes. Heat, releasing agent, a big vice to hold part of it securely without damage and then twist and turn (and shout!). In extremis shock with a blunt instrument on something sturdy.

I find 'Shock & Unlock' works well on smaller stuff with potential for differential contraction - like needle bearing cages in suspension linkages, but not much better than Plusgas on larger items.

I just had a right old game getting the clutch centre off the 57 175 Sport. Not been off since 1957 I reckon and mounted on a taper and a key. I had to fashion a cunning dural plate to use a two legged puller and then use heat from a hot air gun and plusgas repeatedly. Still had to use a lump hammer to tap outwards on the other end of legs of the puller until it popped off with a bang as impressive as some Nordwest alternator rotors.

I would imagine that the 175 would have a thread on the clutch centre for a puller to get it off? Like my Ducati singles have for the alternator; it is always a risk using a two legged puller. If it has let me know and I can knock you one up on the lathe.