TOPIC:

Nick, I will need to re-check, it may only have been the LHS,but there was quite a bit of forward and backward movement in that one. When I realised the chain was both too tight and in need of a spray, I reset both adjusters 4 sixths (4 flats) slacker as a starting guess BEFORE I slackened the wheel nuts.
When I reassembled everything, tightening the LHS was progressive, rather than take up slack then tighten normally. When fully tight, I realised the LHS of the wheel had pulled over, a good 6mm or more compared with the RHS. This was all movement of the spindle in the right angle piece.. Not satisfactory. I could weld up the hole and re-bore to correct size, but I think it better to overbore and make a nut to fix the lot in one go. The RHS MAY be OK. Before I do anything, I will measure the ovality.
Yesterday, I removed the "bash plate", and I will fit a longer high tensile Allan bolt with a bobbin which will allow me to raise the front, the way I do on the Alazzurra and so remove the front wheel. If that works OK, there will be no need to but a head stock stand, none of which are cheap like rear paddock stands. New battery will be here later in the week, then maybe I can fire it up and try it out.
Les.

Les,
Yes, I've often put blocks beneath engines to raise the front, once the rear is stable, so your idea of incorporating a jacking-point is a good one.
One lesson I learned with using the excellent steering-stem lift on the Cagiva Raptor 650 is that it completely disguised the fact that the steering bearings were notched at the straight-ahead position, because the weight was still on them on the lift. Prior to that discovery, I couldn't fathom why the bike felt so weird when cornering!
Nick

I finally found a couple of hours for the Nordwest today. More worms in the can.
(1) I removed the front wheel, first removing the long M6 threaded rod. Mine had 5 assorted washers on one side and four on the other. Is there a special washer/spacer used here? If so, some details please, or I will need to work something out.
(2) I found a 10,000 microfarad capacitor hanging to the RHS of the (clapped out looking) air filter to carb rubber. Where should it be physically located. Looking at both the '91 and '93 circuits, I can see nothing to correspond with it, and not shown in the key to components.
(3). Valve lifter. No sign of a manual lever, nor of a control cable. I spotted a hole with slot near to the inlet camshaft part of the LHS of the casting, and the manual shows a cable leading from there, but to where??
(4). To remove the fuel tank, I pulled the two pipes from the RHS fuel tap. Only now does it occur to me that these two are not common. Would I be correct in guessing the UPPER pipe is the LHS tap connector, and the lower one being for the carbs?
(5). I found a load of red and blue crimp connectors under front of fuel tank (LHS), so I can see a spot of wiring improvement is needed. I hate those crap connectors!
Les.

1) M6? Surely not? If you mean the front axle, I think mine had a single thick spacer, maybe 8mm, on one side. I'll check dimensions and position.
2) Weird! No idea...
3) There are traces of a valve lifter, presumably relics of the earlier models, but it isn't provided or needed for the electric-start engine.
4) Probably right, but I'd need to check. The LHS tap/reserve is prone to leakage with just a small O-ring running in a mazak casting to back up the coarse needle-jet. Moreover, it is crimped together, but you can ease the needle out through the crimp to access the O-ring and replace it. Viton would be good for the ring if you have a choice.
5) Nasty! I hate those connectors too. I treat all electrical connections with ACF50 liquid to kill corrosion, that being one of the first jobs on any bike new to me.

Tomorrow, I'll start on fitting the UFO chain-slider on my #2 bike and perhaps get it to the MOT test!

Nick

Nick, the front spindle is hollow, with the length of M6 studding through the middle. A done nut at each end, but with the nine assorted spacers for some reason.
The LHS tap. There was a similar one fitted on the RHS of my 750 Monofaro Elefant, so i am familiar. I will need to get it working. It appears to be OFF right now, or maybe blocked.
I can relax over the valve lifter, thanks.
Maybe somebody else can cast some light on the 10,000 micro Farad capacitor?
Thanks, Les.

Is that stud through the front axle shown in any manuals? Sounds like a cosmetic addition! There are plenty of bikes with hollow axles that contain only lightweight air...